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Everything you need to know about Pokémon card grading
How to Grade
Grading Categories
Corners are one of the most important factors in grading. Graders look for any fraying, bending, or whitening at the four corners of the card. Even a single worn corner can drop a card from a 10 to an 8 or lower.
A perfect corner is sharp and pointed with no visible fraying, fuzzing, or white stress marks. Under a loupe or magnification, the corner should come to a clean, crisp point with no separation of the card layers.
Always sleeve cards immediately after pulling them from a pack. Use a soft penny sleeve first, then place the card in a rigid top loader. Never stack unsleeved cards or store them loose in a box where corners can rub together.
Graders inspect all four edges of the card for nicks, chips, roughness, or white wear marks. Edges are the borders between the corners and are particularly vulnerable when cards are shuffled or stored improperly.
Yes, edge nicks are very common, especially on older cards. Cards from the Base Set era (1999–2000) frequently have edge wear due to being played with or stored in binders without sleeves. Even factory-fresh packs can sometimes produce cards with minor edge imperfections.
No — and attempting to alter a card in any way is considered tampering and will result in the card being rejected or marked as altered by grading companies. Cards should be submitted in their natural, unmodified condition.
Centering refers to how evenly the printed image is positioned within the card's border. It is measured as a ratio — for example, 55/45 means the left border is slightly wider than the right. A perfectly centered card is 50/50 on all sides.
PSA requires centering to be no worse than 55/45 on the front and 75/25 on the back for a grade of 10. BGS is stricter, requiring 50/50 on all sides for their Black Label Pristine 10. Even slight miscentering can prevent a card from achieving the top grade.
You can use a ruler or centering tool to measure the border widths on each side. Many collectors use a centering tool app on their phone to get a quick ratio estimate. If the borders are visibly uneven to the naked eye, the card likely won't achieve a 10.
Graders examine both the front and back of the card for scratches, print lines, ink spots, stains, creases, and holo damage on holographic cards. The surface is often the hardest category to achieve a perfect score in because even light handling can leave microscopic scratches.
Holo damage refers to scratches or cloudiness on the holographic foil layer of a card. It appears as dull or scratched areas when the card is tilted under light. Holo damage is extremely common and can significantly reduce a card's grade even if the rest of the card looks perfect.
Hold the card under a bright light and tilt it slowly at different angles. Scratches and print lines will catch the light and become visible. For holo cards, look specifically at the foil area for any dullness or swirl patterns that indicate surface wear.
Grading FAQ
Card grading is the process of having a professional service evaluate the condition of your Pokémon card and assign it a numeric score, typically on a scale of 1–10. A higher grade means the card is in better condition and is usually worth more money.
Graders evaluate four main areas: centering (is the image centered on the card?), corners (are they sharp or worn?), edges (any nicks or chips?), and surface (any scratches, print lines, or stains?). All four scores are combined into an overall grade.
A grade of 10 — called "Gem Mint" — means the card is in essentially perfect condition. It has sharp corners, clean edges, a flawless surface, and near-perfect centering. These cards are extremely rare and command the highest prices.
The most widely recognized grading companies are PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator), BGS (Beckett Grading Services), and CGC (Certified Guaranty Company). PSA is the most popular for Pokémon cards and typically carries the highest resale value.
It depends on the card's value and condition. Grading fees typically range from $20–$100+ per card, so it's usually only worth it if the card is rare, in excellent condition, and likely to sell for significantly more graded than ungraded.
Handle the card only by its edges, never touch the surface. Store it in a soft penny sleeve first, then a rigid top loader or card saver. Avoid rubber bands or anything that could bend or scratch the card before submission.